steam sterilization

[NHMI]

t's above 200F, which is way too hot. There is no dial, but by experimenting and drilling the right number of holes in the lid temp can be regulated very well. I have them down (I actually built these a while ago), to where I can literally turn it on and walk away for the duration of the pasteurizing process (2-4 hours). Well, actually I can't.....I do have to refill it every hour or so, but that's no big deal.
Onto the build......
SUPPLIES:
- Wagner Wallpaper Steamer Model 705
- A big cooler (I use 120qt coolers)
- A tube of silicone
- A rack to sit inside keeping your substrate off the bottom
- A substrate thermometer with a range up to 200F or so
- A wrench and drill with 7/8" spade buit and 5/16" reg. bit
CONSTRUCTION:
1) First off you want to remove the drain spout on the bottom end of the cooler. It should screw right off with a pair of pliers

2) Next put the end of the hose into the hole where the drain spout used to be (mine fit almost perfectly), and silicone it on the outside only

3) While the silicone is drying drill 8-10 holes in the lid to allow steam to escape. Also drill a smaller hole in the middle of the lid to mount the thermometer in



4) Set your rack inside the cooler

That's it! Once the silicone drys you're ready to go! Be advised that this should only be run in a basement/garage or outside as it puts out a lot of steam and smells quite strongly (not bad if you have good poo, although straw smells a little more). I'd also recommend dry running it once or twice to get the temps right. If it's running a little high simply drill a few more holes to allow more steam to escape.
Now you just need some poo

I have heard different ways to load your poo into the pasteurizer, but this is how I do it. Prepare your poo and load it into pillowcases or burlap sacks (I do 25lb sacks). Three 25lb sacks fits reasonably well in mine, although it runs a little better with two. Try to flatten the sacks out some so they aren't balled up tight and set them in the cooler on the rack. I put a hole in my middle sack and stick the end of the thermometer probe right into the middle for a good reading.
Okay, that should do it. It's very easy and should only take 15 minutes at the most to construct.
Also, again, this is not my invention - I am just posting how I did it! Thanks
MG

[NHMI]

i still prefer a PC over steaming, just figured I would throw this up since some board admin seems to have returned to what I thought was a dead board....:D

[Braniac]

i just do not like the idea of steam sterilization. pcing is the way to go. pasturizing is soaking in water at about 170 degrees for an hour

[NHMI]

ya, I always PC but some stuff you cant or it wont work as well.

[Rocknrolla]

I like that there are people trying to find ways around having to use a PC, that's for sure.

[NHMI]

ya but when it comes down to it they really are a necessity every time I try steam sterilization it doesn't work...I have even seen people bake it in a stove...but just works best in the PC IMO

[DopeMushroomMoFo]

Well in reality when at 15psi you are just getting the entire jar to about 250 degrees F. and since water boils at like 220 degrees F. When brought to a heavy boil you are getting the jar to about the same temp as a PC, I have used the boil method of just boiling in a pot with a lid for QT sized LC's and they actually created a vacuum seal inside the jar (2 self healing injector ports) idk, but it works for LC, why not for the PF tek. I mean I have seen people just using a pot of heavy boiling water and getting 100% success, but if you live in a high mold area, yes PCing is the only way to go. I'm glad i got a pressure cooker, because i think it's vary important. However, I think that if you don';t have a PC a pot of boiling water is almost as good, definitely better than the microwave or the oven.

[NHMI]

I steamed, microwaved and cooked but had no success until I got my PC cuz I live in a high mold area

[DopeMushroomMoFo]

Really? I have no Idea, but still the temp of a high boil, is about the same as the temp in a PC, now the only difference is that the PC fills with steam that covers the ENTIRE JAR in that high temp were as if you just steam sterilize the part of your jars not submerged will not reach that 250 degree temp, I have no idea the temp of the steam being produced in a pot that doesn't seal, but i do know that steam sterilizing might not be as sterile as a PC, but it will still reach a temp high enough to kill bacteria, and mold spores. So it could be used successfully, but I don't think it's fool proof, and I'm not saying the investment in a PC isn't worth it.

[NHMI]

I am a mold tech so I roll around in mold all day....my sporeload was just too high, I need a flowhood and now have active air technology.

[DopeMushroomMoFo]

Damn, I don't think I could grow mushrooms if it wasn't as close to mold free as possible here. I'm sure there is mold still, just not vary much because it's really clean here all the time. i wipe every thing with Lysol whipes, and spray (did before I started growing mushrooms too). I'm kinda a neat freak, I mean I'll spend hours cleaning stuff that's already clean.

[LegalAlien]

Can one sterilize jars at only 10psi? I got a PC with only 10psi option...

[luke]

How about some pictures??

t's above 200F, which is way too hot. There is no dial, but by experimenting and drilling the right number of holes in the lid temp can be regulated very well. I have them down (I actually built these a while ago), to where I can literally turn it on and walk away for the duration of the pasteurizing process (2-4 hours). Well, actually I can't.....I do have to refill it every hour or so, but that's no big deal.
Onto the build......
SUPPLIES:
- Wagner Wallpaper Steamer Model 705
- A big cooler (I use 120qt coolers)
- A tube of silicone
- A rack to sit inside keeping your substrate off the bottom
- A substrate thermometer with a range up to 200F or so
- A wrench and drill with 7/8" spade buit and 5/16" reg. bit
CONSTRUCTION:
1) First off you want to remove the drain spout on the bottom end of the cooler. It should screw right off with a pair of pliers

2) Next put the end of the hose into the hole where the drain spout used to be (mine fit almost perfectly), and silicone it on the outside only

3) While the silicone is drying drill 8-10 holes in the lid to allow steam to escape. Also drill a smaller hole in the middle of the lid to mount the thermometer in



4) Set your rack inside the cooler

That's it! Once the silicone drys you're ready to go! Be advised that this should only be run in a basement/garage or outside as it puts out a lot of steam and smells quite strongly (not bad if you have good poo, although straw smells a little more). I'd also recommend dry running it once or twice to get the temps right. If it's running a little high simply drill a few more holes to allow more steam to escape.
Now you just need some poo

I have heard different ways to load your poo into the pasteurizer, but this is how I do it. Prepare your poo and load it into pillowcases or burlap sacks (I do 25lb sacks). Three 25lb sacks fits reasonably well in mine, although it runs a little better with two. Try to flatten the sacks out some so they aren't balled up tight and set them in the cooler on the rack. I put a hole in my middle sack and stick the end of the thermometer probe right into the middle for a good reading.
Okay, that should do it. It's very easy and should only take 15 minutes at the most to construct.
Also, again, this is not my invention - I am just posting how I did it! Thanks
MG